dos divs y un perro

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So we say goodbye to France and Drive to San Sebastián. We Walk into the town where’s There’s a brilliant beach artist (taking street art to the sand) a harmonica player who’s creates the soundscape to our Spanish adventure and then a guy busking who would be shown on the X factor for all the wrong reasons. The kind you would pay to ask him to take a little break but it’s all just beautiful. We have pinchos and Txakoli wine and admire the revolutionary art work on the shutters. Signs that say this is not Spain nor France it’s the basque country. Gorgeous hotel and great location but up a hill and after the sand dunes our calves may never be the same!

In the morning we walked down to the Ondaretta beach for a lovely ‘Fria’ (so fluent in Spanish now!) swim.. we go one at a time as the other wonders round the gardens with the dog. It feels lovely to be in the water. It’s a very dog friendly beach so it’s nice to watch the dogs and not actually have to worry about your own! Back up the hill (remember the calves!) to the hotel to check out… stu changed into his swims in the car so has no bottoms… I offer him my baby grow but it’s a strong no! We get to leave the car and we trundle off to the funicular. Wilson needs his own ticket but he does take up a fair bit of room!!! Stunning views at the top and a theme park too… the funicular was a big enough ride for Wilson though, As we descended the guy operating it opened the door before we had anywhere near stopped and Wilson tried to exit! Keep your arms, legs and everything else inside the ride at all times boy! Head to the car and drive to Santander. Our stop for a mountain top view at Bilbao is a complete wash out so we plough on. Our apartment is amazing. So swanky and an excellent price. But whilst parking, Stu was fitting into the space totally unaware there was jutting ceiling! When I say close shave I mean CLOSE! There’s an incredible little grocer down the road so i pop down for our ‘Cantabria Stu’ a version of the local stew on offer by head chef. The car park is loads of flights of slippery steps, 2 sets of lifts and the amount of times I have to go back down due to forgetting items is actually beyond divvy. One time I manage to set of a car alarm which then sets of the dog that was asleep in it while his owners went out for dinner… all for a tin opener! 

We started our day in Santander… strolling round the marina and then a quick stop at a bakery (that Wilson literally chose by following his nose in there!) we then drove until we hit 1000 miles and stopped which coincidentally got us on the Camino Pilgrimage, so we gave some thumbs up and did a little walk ourselves!!!! I wanted to ask someone in the supermarket if they were on the trail but wondered if it was rude because I was probably asking because she looked exhausted, a bit dirty and had a backpack… too risky I didn’t ask! We then drove to 

Bufones de Pria - where the waves crash and spout out of the limestone cliffs! Amazing. Then came to our accomodation which we have booked for 2 nights and after Stu’s seafood paella we walked to a gorgeous bridge where Wilson had a swim and then we crossed the road and there was a statue of my friend Gabriela’s grandad!!! Crazy. That was a lot in this day!

We don’t have to spend the morning manically packing up… wahoo!!! So it’s a leisurely start for sure, which is needed. Incredible 4 hour walk with so many different greens in the landscape, the water so clear and then snow capped mountains in the background... It’s Like a Bob Ross painting. Come back for a little rest but Someone has left their dog in the apartments we are staying at and he is backing up and running and slamming themselves into the door trying to get out, crack my heart. I went down there and shhhhh’d at the door and he did it less but poor pup is not happy! We go for ‘SIDRA’ which is a whole situation. You pour Sidra from a great height (and get a lot on the floor) and then down it in one! We watch the waiter once and then it’s our turn! #disaster but A* for effort! The waiter does give me a tutorial but after downing the rest of the bottle I only deteriorate!! We then walk round the cute town of Cangas de Onis which is adorable. We sit on a bridge as the sun sets and some teenagers come and want to give Wilson treats so he is thrilled and makes some friends! Then we stop and get croquettas and a platter of cheese which we are informed of the order to eat it in… starting from mild and creamy to worn socks and blow your head off! Delicious with a sensational view of a church. We walk back home to watch a Barcelona match. It’s so picturesque here I google translate ‘please can we stay another night’ and send it to the hotel manager. They reply ‘Sisi, os podéis quedar otra noche 😃’ so there we have it… another night is set!

In a swimsuit and light trousers and swim shorts and a t-shirt we pop into the town of Cangas De Onis for a coffee. Everyone else is in coats and scarfs and is looking at us like we are mad! But, in the sun it is already hot! We then go to the stunning bridge to get in the water. The bridge has a Huge cross on it and the experience does feel almost religious! You understand why cold water therapy is so good for mental health, because you think of nothing else apart from breathing and staying calm, it’s very serene… apart from the dog splashing you chasing his toy! We go home to get ready for the day and stu speaks to the owner who shows him a little secret route through the garden which reaches the rapid flowing river. He follows the water and is filled with wonder at this secluded beauty. Once ready we meet our Amigos which is joyous. Friends who have a place near and come and take us out for lunch and then up into the mountains of Seguenco. A winding road not for the faint hearted! They took us on an incredible hike with views that were utterly breathtaking. We would never have gone there without them and feel so lucky. The day is impossibly clear and they said it was the furthest they have ever been able to see, including an incredible church in Covadonga that I think we will see tomorrow. Being  up there with the snow capped mountains, passing horses, cows, birds and the visual splendour at the top are views that shall never be forgotten. Incredible. We come back and meet in town for more Sidra pouring, wine and cheese. We ask to stay another night!!!

I awake after a dead man’s sleep and am human again! The view is just as beautiful in the morning but after breakfast we turn around and someone has rubbed out the sky! It’s grey and misty but Stu is insistent that he wears cream and a cap on the wander of ‘Foz’ and I am chuckling because as we leave it is gently spitting with not an ounce of sunshine! After a stroll around the town which used to be big in the whaling industry, we about turn and go pack to the flat… we were supposed to check out at 11 but the lady said we can go whenever as no one was coming today which is a win. It’s Misty and hazy all day, even as we get to playas de las Catedrales. We hope that the fog will add some sort of foreboding mystery to our pics else they might just look a bit flat! While we are there It clears, the skies go blue, it’s just mighty and indeed time for cream, damn my dismissiveness! A magical vista of gothic arches through the cliffs playing out a natural Notre Dame with secret caves and crevices dotted around. The rocks are covered in seaweed, algae and General slippy stuff… I am thrilled I don’t have to take the dog over such terrain and leave that job to Stu! You have to get the timing right on this one… when the tide goes out you have a small window to check out the splendour and then when the tide comes in… well, you’re buggered! The tide is not yet fully out, but to get the picture of the arches with no crowds you gotta go for it! I immediately Damn my short legs as I’m already up to my undercarriage! But boy was it worth the feeling of wetting yourself! Stu goes after me (as we couldn’t get the dog there and decided one at a time would be more successful) and he is in his swim shorts which is much more appropriate! On the Drive to A Coruña there’s a cats cradle of aeroplane slip streams in the sky, our 2 divs and a dog soundtrack playing and one TIRED Pup in the back. Thick fog again engulfs us as we enter A Coruña we are strangely literally the only people at our apartment so the owner says Wilson has free rein of the grounds (even the swimming pool?!) we go out for dinner with a view of castle. It’s windy and flipping freezing like 15 degrees and we are in Flipflops so we decide to head back sharpish. interesting to think we are as west as the west of Ireland and there is nothing except the ocean between us and North America. We walk back to an alarm of dogs… walking past each house we set off their BARK alarm. Safe back in our complex we take advantage of being the only guests and snoop around. The gardens and upkeep are meticulous as it’s a wedding venue in high season - maybe not helped by the bit of diarrhoea Wilson has on the pristine lawn! We pick up and wash it away and the beauty remains! Now to bed!

In the morning, the outdoor pool is shut for low season but they said we can do what we like so, look out below, in we go… which is an invigorating start. We try a visit to A Coruña main town but it is a drive by in the end as we can’t find anywhere to park! Either too low entrances or yellow bays mean residents only (we discovered that!) and by the 4th try we are ready to sack it off but both need a wee so badly that we are relieved, In more ways than one, to find a coveted BLUE space! We quickly find a sweet cafe, have a look at the beautiful sea with its many aqua tones and head off. Bye A Coruña.

Next we go to Santiago de Compostela. The final goal for those walking the Camino trail. Now before we left we watched a quirky little documentary about the Camino and, not for all but, for a lot, it serves as a quest and pilgrimage for people who have lost loved ones, felt lost themselves, are soul searching or battling depression. So it actually felt very emotional just people watching as they arrived to their final destination in front of this holy cathedral and point their walking sticks to the sky, hug, rejoice and sit in awe at the magnificent place - which was a mistake for some watching them trying get up again, ouch! Many looked broken and injured but I hope for them something inside has healed. A man was on one knee and I said Stu look he’s about to propose, turns out he was just selling stuff, not the place or time fella! It was very moving watching people at the height of their achievement. We have quick wander round and as we leave it’s a wee stop. We Queue in the toilet and Wilson is between my legs and then I notice his nose touches the lady in fronts bum!!! She side eyes my and then swoons at Wilson and screeches ‘Bonita’ and gives him lots of cuddles! Such a Flirt! 

Next we go to the Illa de Arousa. I snigger a lot when I google ‘Is there a bridge to Arousa!!!’ Don’t ask about the internets answers but YES there is… a mighty impressive one! The little island of Arousa is so picturesque and beautiful we perhaps would have stayed had we known the little secret wonder was here! We walk along the empty beachfront, Wilson has a chew on a stick and we try and go for dinner. But all the eateries don’t open till 8.30 and we still have to get to Vigo!! So we start heading south with panaramic views of prestine vineyards and by the time we get to our apartment we are shattered. I accidentally play a game of knock down ginger as I press some ones doorbell and not the light switch down a very dark corridor taking the dog into the apartment, run Wilson!… We can’t work out a takeaway so I go and get Stu some beer and pizza as he has driven a lot today and have an omelette myself…. Easing the stomach back after sickness! We both manage a bath and then it’s to bed. That was an everything AND the kitchen sink kind of a day so tomorrow will be more chill (maybe!).